Brat

Brat is a wood-fire grill restaurant on the first floor of 4 Redchurch Street in Shoreditch, East London, run by chef Tomos Parry.

Parry grew up on Anglesey and studied politics and history before turning to cooking. After moving to London he ran the wood-fired kitchen at Climpson's Arch in Hackney, where most of the menu came off the grill, and then cooked at Kitty Fisher's in Mayfair, the small Anglo-Spanish restaurant where he made his name. With the restaurateur Ben Chapman he opened Brat in March 2018, in the rooms above Smoking Goat. Harden's named it the best newcomer of that year, and the Michelin Guide awarded it a star in its next edition for Great Britain and Ireland.

The cooking takes its lead from the asadors of the Basque Country, where fish and meat are grilled over open flames. The name comes from an old English word for turbot, and a whole grilled turbot is the dish most closely tied to the restaurant. Next to it come a wild venison chop, duck roasted in the wood oven, smoked mussels on toast and mackerel gildas on skewers. Corn is brushed with butter infused with hay.

Close-set wooden tables fill a room lined in timber. The drinks list leans on sherry and covers wines from familiar regions as well as rarer ones such as Georgia. Brat took second place at the National Restaurant Awards a year after opening, and Parry later added Brat at Climpson's Arch as a seasonal sister and opened Mountain in Soho.